60-second answer
Use contribution margin to set an acquisition ceiling.
Gross margin is revenue minus product cost. Contribution margin subtracts the other costs caused by an order, such as fulfillment, payment or marketplace fees, discounts, refunds, and expected return loss. Break-even ROAS should use contribution margin because that is the money available to pay for advertising.
Contribution margin % = (net revenue - all variable order costs) / net revenue
Break-even ROAS = 1 / contribution margin %
Decision boundary: This model stops before fixed overhead. Reserve overhead and profit explicitly in a target ROAS rather than hiding them inside product cost.